Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Acid (THD)

Description

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a form of vitamin C which has been modified to be soluble in oil or lipids. Studies indicate that it not only penetrates the epidermis, the uppermost layer of skin, but also the dermis, which is the deepest layer of skin. In fact, it penetrates the skin faster and deeper than any other form of vitamin C.

So if it penetrates both layers of the skin, does this make it more effective? Vitamin C derivatives need to be converted into L-ascorbic acid; it is the L-ascorbic acid element that fades away your age spots, enhances collagen production and fights free radicals. Studies indicate that Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate does convert into L-ascorbic acid and behaves in exactly the same way as L-ascorbic acid, but without the limitations. This is important.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.

Properties

– At 0.1% reduces melanin synthesis by 80%

– At 10% eliminated age spots in 16 weeks

– At 3% in vivo reduces Delta-L value by 15% vs. placebo (22 people) a way to measure whitening effect.

– Increases collagen synthesis at least twice as much as ascorbic acid.

– Protects the cells against UV-B better than other esters of Vitamin C.

– Approved as a quasi-drug in Korea at 2%, and in Japan at 3%.

– Approved as a functional ingredient for whitening at 2% in korea.

Benefits of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Acid:

1. Provides potent antioxidant protection by destroying free radicals that cause premature ageing of skin.

2. It provides skin brightening benefits by reducing the amount of skin pigment by almost 80%.

3. Helps boost collagen production and, in fact, more so than L-ascorbic acid. This is because one of the limiting factors with L-ascorbic acid is its inability to penetrate deeper into the dermis.

4. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid that are naturally present in skin and so help to hydrate skin as well as plump skin cells. Levels of these glycosaminoglycans decline with age and this may account for some of the changes that occur with our skin as we age.

5. Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate is stable, safe, effective and suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin.

6. Widely used as an add-on ingredient in skin lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age dark spots.

7. 30% concentration of Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate used with other discoloration reducing ingredients was shown to improve stubborn hyperpigmentation and was even suitable for melasma- prone skin.

CAS No. 1445760-15-5; 183476-82-6

INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Colour & Appearance: clear to pale yellow lightweight liquid

pH range: 3-6

Recommended usage: 0.5-3% (Typical use level 1-10%).

Solubility: soluble in ethanol, hydrocarbons, esters, and vegetable oils.

Compability: The Antioxidant effect can be increased by combining L-ascorbic acid with L-ascorbyl palmitate and/or vitamin E. Compatible with other skin lighteners.

Mixing Method: Add to oil soluble phase of formula. Do not apply directly to skin. For external use only.

Temperature resistance: final temperature of the cosmetics must be below 40°C
Grade: cosmetics grade

Origin: USA

Applications: Lotions, gels, creams, sun care & after sun products, makeup, lip products.

Why Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Special?

Stability
L-ascorbic acid is generally regarded to be a highly unstable ingredient and often needs special packaging or formulating to prevent it from degrading and losing potency.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a far more stable form of vitamin C. Like many of the vitamin C derivatives, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is stable in solution.

Oil-based
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil-based ingredient which means that it is much more versatile than other forms of vitamin C that need to be dissolved in water.

The oil-based formulation also helps to improve the penetration abilities of the ingredient. This helps to deliver its benefits to the skin.

The oil-base means that this form of vitamin C can be used in a larger variety of product types and with a greater range of other ingredients such as retinol.

pH
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has a neutral pH which means that it doesn’t irritate the skin like many of the acidic vitamin C products. This neutral pH also adds to the stability and versatility of the ingredient as well.
Packaging: Our water/Liquid based ingredients are bottled in plastics avoid spillage.

Recommended Storage: Our water/Liquid based ingredients should be stored in cool temperatures away from direct sunlight and moisture in an airtight container.

DISCLAIMER:
– DAKITZ NATURAL PRODUCTS are for cosmetic, personal care formulations and are meant for external use only unless otherwise STATED. This information is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

Kindly note that you are responsible for researching, testing, and understanding ingredients before buying. – We recommend working with a chemist or a formulator if you’re not advanced in formulating.